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1. Vicon Baler Rp1210
2. Vicon 1210 Round Baler

Vicon Baler Rp1210

I know someone with a Vicon RF 119 round baler who's having problems with it. The control box works fine until it comes to stopping the netwrap operation. The actuator cylinder only comes back (or retracts) part of the way to release of the cutter bar and cut the netwrap. It stops about 3/4 inch short of hitting the release block, and does this in both automatic or manual operation.

Anyone have any ideas what might be stopping the baler completing the cycle, as all the other functions are working fine? Thanks Graeme. I know someone with a Vicon RF 119 round baler who's having problems with it.

The control box works fine until it comes to stopping the netwrap operation. The actuator cylinder only comes back (or retracts) part of the way to release of the cutter bar and cut the netwrap. It stops about 3/4 inch short of hitting the release block, and does this in both automatic or manual operation. Anyone have any ideas what might be stopping the baler completing the cycle, as all the other functions are working fine? Thanks GraemeIs the anvil and knife bar all clean. I know someone with a Vicon RF 119 round baler who's having problems with it. The control box works fine until it comes to stopping the netwrap operation.

The actuator cylinder only comes back (or retracts) part of the way to release of the cutter bar and cut the netwrap. It stops about 3/4 inch short of hitting the release block, and does this in both automatic or manual operation. Anyone have any ideas what might be stopping the baler completing the cycle, as all the other functions are working fine? Thanks GraemeNever done anything with a 119 but it must be the same setup as a 121. Has it got an SOS mode on the control box? Do you swap between net a twine on the box on the baler not the hand held one? If so you should be able to flick a switch to SOS and then use the arrow keys on the side of the hand held control box to manually move the actuator.

(all you'll be doing is sending 12V direct to the actuator) This will determine if the actuator is right or not. If it moves OK like this, is there a sensor on the smaller belt pulley attached to the net roller?

This if same setup as I think of tells the control box that the bale has done x amount of revolutions and it's time to trip the knive. The small pulley should have a lump screwd onto it to pass the sensor once every revolution, I had these falling off and then the box didn't know it was time to release knive. I know someone with a Vicon RF 119 round baler who's having problems with it. The control box works fine until it comes to stopping the netwrap operation.

The actuator cylinder only comes back (or retracts) part of the way to release of the cutter bar and cut the netwrap. It stops about 3/4 inch short of hitting the release block, and does this in both automatic or manual operation. Anyone have any ideas what might be stopping the baler completing the cycle, as all the other functions are working fine?

Thanks Graemelooking from the front of net rap unit on the right hand side theres a spring about 5 inches in lenth check its not broken crazy. I know someone with a Vicon RF 119 round baler who's having problems with it. The control box works fine until it comes to stopping the netwrap operation. The actuator cylinder only comes back (or retracts) part of the way to release of the cutter bar and cut the netwrap. It stops about 3/4 inch short of hitting the release block, and does this in both automatic or manual operation.

Anyone have any ideas what might be stopping the baler completing the cycle, as all the other functions are working fine? Thanks GraemeI know this is years old, but for others with this problem, I've fixed many issues with the netwrap actuator over the years (far cheaper than buying a new unit).

Vicon 1210 Round Baler

To start with, the problem above is most likely the switch that tells the actuator that it has reached the end of it's travel, after many cycles they wear out and often the button will stick down. So the actuator won't go down as it thinks it's already at the end of it's travel.the solution may seem like simply unclicking the switch, but this is temporary as it can easily happen again.

What you want to do is swap the two switches, there is another switch at the top end that never gets uses (unless the belt breaks), simply unsolder them and swap end for end.you need to make sure the old switch has un-clicked itself. The next issue is the 'reed switch', this is a glass electrical component with 2 contacts (reeds) that touch each time a magnet passes.

On the actuator, this switch reads the number of turns the thread makes, so that it can return to the starting position each time. You'll find it on the electrical board right beside the bottom bearing of the actuator threads. I've had this switch break and the actuator getting stuck in the up position.they are a cheap component to purchase and easy to replace, but be sure to face it in the right direction so that the reeds make contact each time the magnet passes. The next issue can be in the main control box, the solenoids that power the actuator can carbon up the contacts or create barbs that hook the contacts. This takes a bit more skill, but it is possible to lightly file the contacts, you need to remove the plastic covers to get to the contacts.

The final one is a mechanical one. The actuator can only apply so much force before it will stop, so make sure everything on the knife release is free.a little grease on the contact points can really help.