I'm curious about the 5-speed manuals of yesteryear compared to the 6-speed manuals of the newer models. Is the 6-speed like adding a gear below 1st gear of the 5-speeders, or is it more like adding a gear above 5th gear of the 5-speeders? Are the top and bottom gear ratios of the 5-speeder about the same as those of the 6-speeder, and the 6-speed just adds another step in between 1st & 5th gear, making the gear ratios closer together? Just curious, if anyone happens to know.

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A second question would be what year did they go from 5-speed manual to 6-speed? The answer is yes.;-) Let's compare three transmissions that modern Jeeps have used: The current NSG370, used in JK and 2005+ TJ, the previous NVG3550 used in TJ from 2000-2004, and it's predecessor, the AX15, used in TJs until 1999. Starting from 1st gear, their ratios are: NSG370: 4.46 2.61 1.72 1.25 1.00 0.84 NVG3550: 4.01 2.33 1.39 1.00.78 AX15: 3.83, 2.33, 1.44, 1.00, 0.79 Note that the second to last gear in all is 1.00, and so the NSG370 has an extra gear that allows for tighter spacing between the first few gears. This helps the driver keep the revs a little closer together, theoretically improving gas mileage.

First gear is lower, putting more torque to the wheels when starting to move, and the overdrive gear is also lower, which would make the engine rev faster to maintain the same speed as an older transmission, assuming tire size and differential gearing are the same. Why was this done? Perhaps the 3.8 has a higher power band than the 4 cylinder engines? I'm not totally sure how those compare. Edit: Source links.

The answer is yes.;-) Let's compare three transmissions that modern Jeeps have used: The current NSG370, used in JK and 2005+ TJ, the previous NVG3550 used in TJ from 2000-2004, and it's predecessor, the AX15, used in TJs until 1999. Starting from 1st gear, their ratios are: NSG370: 4.46 2.61 1.72 1.25 1.00 0.84 NVG3550: 4.01 2.33 1.39 1.00.78 AX15: 3.83, 2.33, 1.44, 1.00, 0.79 Note that the second to last gear in all is 1.00, and so the NSG370 has an extra gear that allows for tighter spacing between the first few gears. This helps the driver keep the revs a little closer together, theoretically improving gas mileage. First gear is lower, putting more torque to the wheels when starting to move, and the overdrive gear is also lower, which would make the engine rev faster to maintain the same speed as an older transmission, assuming tire size and differential gearing are the same.

Why was this done? Perhaps the 3.8 has a higher power band than the 4 cylinder engines? I'm not totally sure how those compare. Edit: Source links: I can only add two small details to this excellent post.

A closer ratio with more gears is better driving experience than a wide ratio one with fewer gears: more sports car, less dump truck. The NSG370 is an all around better transmission than the previous 5-speeds. It's not just smother and quieter, it also has a higher torque rating. My first 4 JKs were all 6-speed manuals. Although I cannot compare it to the older 5-speed, I can say the JK is surprisingly more fun to drive with the 6-speed. Usually those griping that the 6-speed is the worst manual transmission ever are comparing it to that in a sporty car, where a quicker, notchier shifting is considered better.

When you are shifting gears on a difficult trail, it is NOT about speed but about having a wider margin for error in the form of more travel to modulate the clutch pedal and the gearshift. That's what the 6-speed on a Wrangler is designed for. Trying to shift gears with a quick, short throw shifter like those found on BMWs or Hondas would make wheeling a difficult trail a LOT harder. Having said that, wheeling with an auto is still much 'easier' than with a manual.

My first 4 JKs were all 6-speed manuals. Although I cannot compare it to the older 5-speed, I can say the JK is surprisingly more fun to drive with the 6-speed.

Usually those griping that the 6-speed is the worst manual transmission ever they are comparing it to that in a sporty car, where a quicker, notchier shifting is considered better. When you are shifting gears on a difficult trail, it is NOT about speed but about having a wider margin for error in the form of more travel to modulate the clutch pedal and the gearshift. That's what the 6-speed on a Wrangler is designed for. Trying to shift gears with a quick, short throw shifter like those found on BMWs or Hondas would make wheeling a difficult trail a LOT harder. Having said that, wheeling with an auto is still much 'easier' than with a manual.

Well said.I have had two 6 speed JKs and the 6 speed manual tranny is a beautiful thing.The new 5 speed auto is nice too if you want a automatic. A whole LOT of the dissatisfaction people experience with the 6 speed in the JK (at least the 3.6) has nothing to do with the transmission and everything to do with the terrible execution of the drive by wire throttle system. DBW doesn't have to be bad - I've had various systems from Porsche since 2002 and they were all completely undetectable from a throttle cable - but Jeep's execution is just horrible. There's a built in lag for some reason between pedal push and actual throttle opening that's long enough to throw off the timing of your clutch work. If the Jeep is your only car with a stick, you can get used to it and start to compensate without thinking about it.

But if you go back and forth between a Jeep and another manual car with a proper throttle, you're going to have your clutch timing thrown off every time you change cars. Ask me how I know. The solution for me was a Sprint Booster. It physically inserts between the pedal and the throttle and changes the timing of throttle application; doesn't get it perfect, but close enough that my problems went away when moving from Jeep to sportscar. But it sucks having to pay 300 bucks to correct that software problem. My first 4 JKs were all 6-speed manuals.

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Although I cannot compare it to the older 5-speed, I can say the JK is surprisingly more fun to drive with the 6-speed. Usually those griping that the 6-speed is the worst manual transmission ever are comparing it to that in a sporty car, where a quicker, notchier shifting is considered better. When you are shifting gears on a difficult trail, it is NOT about speed but about having a wider margin for error in the form of more travel to modulate the clutch pedal and the gearshift. That's what the 6-speed on a Wrangler is designed for. Trying to shift gears with a quick, short throw shifter like those found on BMWs or Hondas would make wheeling a difficult trail a LOT harder.

Having said that, wheeling with an auto is still much 'easier' than with a manual. I am comparing it to 4x4 Toyotas and 4x4 Ford Rangers, not sorts cars. Compared to the Toyotas and Fords, Jeep's manual transmission leaves much to be desired. I enjoyed driving my manual Toyotas and Fords.

2016 Tj Jeep Wrangler Manual Review

But, got to the point the Jeep manual was just not any fun and a PITA, so traded it in. Auto only now for me when it comes to Jeeps. Now, getting another Toyota 4x4 or Ford, I will take manual.

I just don't get it. I can go into 6th right around 6065mph with no problem. At 70 I'm turning right around 2,000rpm, and it'll climb hills without issue. There's no doubt that 3.73 gears would allow me to use 6th more often, but so what? To the best of my knowledge there are no points awarded for frequent use of 6th gear. My experience as well.

6th is more of an overdrive gear imo. If I'm on flat & level ground I'll even use it as low as 80Kmph, but if acceleration is needed, gearing down is mandatory. As 05Train says, at highways speeds it can easily stay in 6'th for pretty much all the time.

A whole LOT of the dissatisfaction people experience with the 6 speed in the JK (at least the 3.6) has nothing to do with the transmission and everything to do with the terrible execution of the drive by wire throttle system. DBW doesn't have to be bad - I've had various systems from Porsche since 2002 and they were all completely undetectable from a throttle cable - but Jeep's execution is just horrible. There's a built in lag for some reason between pedal push and actual throttle opening that's long enough to throw off the timing of your clutch work.

If the Jeep is your only car with a stick, you can get used to it and start to compensate without thinking about it. But if you go back and forth between a Jeep and another manual car with a proper throttle, you're going to have your clutch timing thrown off every time you change cars. Ask me how I know. The solution for me was a Sprint Booster. It physically inserts between the pedal and the throttle and changes the timing of throttle application; doesn't get it perfect, but close enough that my problems went away when moving from Jeep to sportscar.

But it sucks having to pay 300 bucks to correct that software problem. I'm looking at pedal booster, but I bet it's not a low cost situation either. A whole LOT of the dissatisfaction people experience with the 6 speed in the JK (at least the 3.6) has nothing to do with the transmission and everything to do with the terrible execution of the drive by wire throttle system.

DBW doesn't have to be bad - I've had various systems from Porsche since 2002 and they were all completely undetectable from a throttle cable - but Jeep's execution is just horrible. There's a built in lag for some reason between pedal push and actual throttle opening that's long enough to throw off the timing of your clutch work. If the Jeep is your only car with a stick, you can get used to it and start to compensate without thinking about it.

Anything else? 2015 yamaha jet ski horsepower.

But if you go back and forth between a Jeep and another manual car with a proper throttle, you're going to have your clutch timing thrown off every time you change cars. Ask me how I know. The solution for me was a Sprint Booster. It physically inserts between the pedal and the throttle and changes the timing of throttle application; doesn't get it perfect, but close enough that my problems went away when moving from Jeep to sportscar. But it sucks having to pay 300 bucks to correct that software problem. Thank you for this post. I had no idea, and now I know why I have so many WTF moments when driving my Jeep.

I have driven stick all my life all the way up to 18 speeds and I have to say this Jeep of mine has been the most confusing and least forgiving of them all. But I have been getting better. I think my 6sp is fine in my '16. Finding 6th was a little tricky at 1st but I found that if I just push it RIGHT against the gate in 5th before I shift to 6th it goes right in. Maybe they changed something in the later JKs? Is it anything like the built 5sp in my Trans-Am with its aftermarket Hurst shifter? No but its not a sports car transmission.

Its a clunky heavy duty jeep trans. The JK trans is a little tricky but nothing compared to rides ive owned with non-synco low gear or some of the 1960s IHC LoadStar trucks ive driven for summer jobs when I was a teen. Some one posted an alignment procedure here and after i did that my starts have been much smoother. A whole LOT of the dissatisfaction people experience with the 6 speed in the JK (at least the 3.6) has nothing to do with the transmission and everything to do with the terrible execution of the drive by wire throttle system. DBW doesn't have to be bad - I've had various systems from Porsche since 2002 and they were all completely undetectable from a throttle cable - but Jeep's execution is just horrible. There's a built in lag for some reason between pedal push and actual throttle opening that's long enough to throw off the timing of your clutch work.

If the Jeep is your only car with a stick, you can get used to it and start to compensate without thinking about it. But if you go back and forth between a Jeep and another manual car with a proper throttle, you're going to have your clutch timing thrown off every time you change cars. Ask me how I know. The solution for me was a Sprint Booster.

It physically inserts between the pedal and the throttle and changes the timing of throttle application; doesn't get it perfect, but close enough that my problems went away when moving from Jeep to sportscar. But it sucks having to pay 300 bucks to correct that software problem.

I have been very impressed with the Sprint Booster's performance on my auto transmission. Would be hard not to have one now. Very noticeable improvement. I wish I would have known about the Spring Booster when I had my 2012 Manual. Would have liked to have tried it out, to see the difference.

As you describe, sounds like it does the trick. I tell everyone I meet now that owns a JK, to get a Sprint Booster.

July 2018 Update: Jeep is running fine. Just changed the oil again at 40000 miles.

I switched to full synthetic oil and since I got the Jeep, I change oil every 5000 miles religiously. The hope is that the synthetic oil will afford better engine wear protection especially as it racks up age and mileage. It also extends oil life; I could change oil at 7500 to 10000, but don't want to push it. Changing oil basically twice a year isn't bad at Read More all. Walmart started carrying the OE Mopar oil filter elements which are cheaper there than at the auto parts places. Some might argue that the Wix or other brands are better filters, but I figure if they put them in at the factory they are good enough.

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As of this last oil change I need to rotate tires; I do that about every oil change, but no less than every 6000 miles. Also when I rotate tires, I'm going to check brake pads all around. The brakes have 40000 miles on them; haven't had any issues; no noises or change in stopping power, but the pedal is starting to feel squishy and I've noticed the e-brake seems easier to pull.

I plan to do a full brake inspection when I rotate tires and most likely I will replace brakes, but I need to decide if I will put OE pads back on or get a 'better' set more suited for off-roading, towing etc. Truthfully I don't know if there is any real difference between OE and aftermarket, but usually, the 'better' brake pads are more expensive. Just short of three years with the Jeep I'm still very satisfied with the quality, performance, and capability of-of the Jeep. All machines at some point need repair and maintenance.

As the Jeep ages and accrues more mileage it will be interesting to see how it fares mechanically. Jeep for Life. OIIIIIIIO Read Less. I would recommend that you rent a Wrangler for a few days if you never driven one before. Driving a Wrangler is a bit different than driving a modern CUV, which is why I love it! I owned a 95 Wrangler that I loved, but unfortunately it was totaled and I could not afford a new one.

The 2016 Wrangler Unlimited Sahara that I bought in May 2016 is worlds better. The ride is quite smooth, the power and acceleration is much improved, and the MPG is Read More great considering the weight and its brick-like aerodynamics. When buying a new Jeep, I would recommend the Freedom Top, you get a quieter ride, improved security, and you can still take off the top in about 10 minutes.

I bought an electric wench to lift off the rear portion of the top for the garage. Makes taking off the top a 1 man job and you have less of a chance of damaging the top. Obviously, this is like no other vehicle in the world.

Fuel economy, highway cruising, storage, practicality aren't the highpoints, nor does Jeep pretend them to be. The back seat is very uncomfortable - a hard flat back and small arm rest. This is my only complaint. I've already taken it into some serious mud and it only gets stuck if your bury it up to the frame. The recovery hook on the front, and someone to pull out resolves this. I've Read More been pleasantly surprised at the highway handling, noise level and comfort.

I wasn't expecting it to cruise around like a Cadillac. The cool factor is all there too. I plan on letting my teenage kids drive it and they are pretty stoked for spring & summer. I have the manual and it's got plenty of power. Used 2016 Jeep Wrangler Overview The Used 2016 Jeep Wrangler is offered in the following submodels:.